I can’t remember when I first smelled the enticing aroma of anise. It’s always been a staple in our Italian family. Whenever there was a wedding, there were anise cookies. When there was a funeral, there were anise cookies. Whenever there was a holiday, there were anise cookies. These cookies were not all the same. My family knew how to bake, so there were an assortment of all kinds. And it didn’t matter if the recipe was the same, each relative made a version of that cookie that tasted unique to that person. My grandmother doused her Italian cookies with a whole bottle of anise extract. My aunt only added a few anise seeds to her favorite specialty, and my cousin measured her anise zest by the teaspoons. My own recipe calls for both extract and crushed seeds, because I like my flavor strong.
If you have never tasted or smelled anise, it is very similar to black licorice. It is also the core ingredient in the liquor “anisette.” Some people are not fond of it at all, but my family lives by it. I don’t know how many bottles of anise extract my great-grandmother, grandmother, mother, aunts, sisters, cousins, and I have used over the years, but I bet we have been keeping that company in business for a long time. There are so many uses for it, whether it’s alcoholic beverages, breads, icings, or cookies.
My family favorite is a delicate thin cookie called “Nells.” It is an anise flavored treat that is intricately designed and baked by placing a spoonful of cookie dough onto a particular machine, which resembles a waffle maker, and then pressed flat. Most people call this cookie a “Pizzelle,” but for years my family called it by its own nickname. I’m not sure how it all came about; (Maybe someone misunderstood the actual name of the cookie, maybe there is a relative out there who was named Nells who discovered it.) but I do know that for the longest time, I searched the internet and local stores for a Nell machine and always came up empty handed. It wasn’t until I was much older, did a friend of mine interpret my family nickname and showed me how I could buy my own Pizzelle cookie maker. I was thrilled!
Pizzelle machines are available to buy through many department stores that specialize in kitchenware or baking. They are also found on Amazon and other internet sites. I received mine as a Christmas present, but I also bought one at Goodwill. Be aware, there are two kinds of “Nell” machines. The old fashioned ones, which my great grandmother used, are used on the top of the stove. The cookies are pressed one at a time, and then cooked over the burner. The newer machines are electric, and can bake two to four pizzelles at a time. I highly recommend the electric ones, because baking one cookie at a time takes tooooooo long! Most batters produce 2 to 3 dozen cookies, and I, personally, don’t want to stand over a stove for a whole day - no matter how good the cookie smells or tastes.
If you don’t own a Pizzelle maker, or you would like to try the recipe first before buying one, there is a little trick that can be used. When I wanted “Nells” so bad and didn’t have a machine, I used a waffle maker. It was one of those machines that made thin pretty waffles - definitely NOT a Belgian waffle maker. I greased both sides of the waffle plates, placed my spoonful of cookie dough on the center, and then pressed the sides together. I only let it cook for a minute or two, because these cookies brown fast. I opened the machine, and there they were - my two “Nells.” The first two batches were a bit overcooked, but after a bit of experimenting with the time, I finally succeeded. They were thicker than the original, and didn’t have the intricate design on them, but they were delicious! My sister even thought they tasted better because they were softer and bigger. If you decide to try the waffle machine, please be careful with your cooking time. Do not depend on the light, because it is designed for waffles, not cookies.
Once you decide that you are ready to make your own “Nells,” try this recipe. It is the same one my family has been using for decades. It has a double dose of anise, because I use both extract and seeds. For the best flavor, I always crush the whole seeds before adding to the batter. The aroma and texture it adds is incredible. Feel free to add as much extract as you like, depending on your taste buds. I always nibble the batter to test how much anise I want for my cookies. As I once told my niece, “If the batter tastes good, the cookies will taste good.”
(Family name for Pizzelles)
Ingredients:
3 eggs
2 cups flour
1 cup sugar
2 tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
½ cup oil
1 Bottle Anise (1 fl. Oz)
2 TBL anise seed (crushed)
Directions:
Prepare Pizzelle machine according to manufacturer’s directions.
In large bowl, beat eggs lightly. Add oil, anise, and anise seeds. Stir in sugar.
In separate bowl, add baking powder and salt to flour. Mix thoroughly.
Add flour combination to egg mixture until dough is formed and can be dropped from a spoon onto the Pizzelle maker. If the dough is too sticky, add more flour.
Lightly grease Pizzelle plates. Drop a tablespoon of dough unto plates and press down. Cook according to machine directions.Carefully take cookie out of machine with spatula and place on a large cookie sheet to firm. Let cool and then stack.
While cookie is warm, it can be rolled to make an outside shell for cream or filling, if desired.
*Other flavors or extracts can be substituted for anise, such as lemon or almond. Omit anise seeds and add lemon zest or crushed almonds if preferred.*
Makes 2- 3 dozen depending on size.
